 Frequently Asked Questions (Technical, products & practical tips).
I HOW CAN I PROTECT MY WOODEN FLOOR AND CERAMIC FLOOR TILES FROM SCUFF DAMAGE CAUSED BY BRASS CASTOR WHEELS ON MY FURNITURE?
Castor wheels can damage varnished floors or porcelain tiles, apart from being noisy. One solution is to cut narrow strips of suede, leather or hide, and stick them onto the flat surface of the wheels however this will only work if there is enough clearance between the wheel and the king pin collar. This can of course be reversed later without damage to the original castor.
Alternatively, we do have castor cups with thick felt pads underneath which can be found in our "Castors" section which provide an attractive character solution to scuffing, and avoids the mass produced plastic castor cups which tend to break up with continued use, and can also look cheap.
It can be annoying if the castors lift out of the cups when moved. In the case of antique chairs or dining tables, replacing the wheels with wood, or removal of the original castors altogether conflict with the principles of good ethical conservation
The problem can be overcome by carefully pouring clear resin (available from most model or hobby shops) into the castor cup with the wheel in place, and leaving to harden. (Be certain to lay a newspaper or plastic sheet underneath first, to avoid spillage damage). The undercut of the cup side walls will lock the wheel to the castor cup but is reversible by drilling and chipping out the resin at a later date if required.
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I HAVE A MID 19th CENTURY BRASS HANDLE WHICH NEEDS STRAIGHTENING. SHOULD I SOFTEN THE METAL WITH AN ACETYLENE TORCH BEFORE BENDING?
It is difficult without scientific analysis to assess the brittleness of old brass as each fitting has differing consistencies according to the original foundry recipe, and you may end up fracturing the handle.
Unless you are very skilled in controlling an acetylene torch, we would suggest using a butane gas torch which burns at a lower temperature with a less concentrated flame. We question whether the use of any heat at all may be wise. It really depends on how important the preservation of the existing historical integrity is to you since the application of heat will certainly destroy the colour; mercury gilding if any, and patination.
Our recommendation is to seek professional advice with an accredited clock or furniture restorer who should be able to carry out this work (See BAFRA on links page).
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WHY ARE THE POMMEL NUTS ROUND AND HOW DO I FIT THEM?
Period pommels were usually made with slotted round nuts, and occasionally square nuts. They were often recessed into the back of the drawer in a gouged out trough which makes them awkward to tighten.
The tool that was used was a screwdriver with a notch cut out of the blade which allowed the end of the pommel to protrude into the blade, and the two forks of the blade fitted into the slot.
If the gouged rebate around the pommel thread is large enough, a pair of narrow bull-nosed pliers should allow enough grip on the edges of the nut to tighten.
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HOW CAN I FIT A THREAD ESCUTCHEON AS IT IS TOO SMALL FOR THE HOLE IN THE TIMBER?
You can make up a mixture of scotch glue and fine sawdust (same timber as the drawer front) which will act both as a gap filler and will secure the escutcheonin place. It will also be reversible. White glue (PVA) will also work but is not easily reversible.
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I WOULD LIKE TO BUY ONE OF YOUR HANDLES BUT I NEED A SMALLER ONE THAN THE ONE LISTED ON YOUR WEBSITE. IS THIS POSSIBLE?
With regret, we can only supply the sizes as stated on our website however, if you are fortunate enough to have an original pattern of the size you require, we can take a mould from it and cast duplicates. The alternative is for you to produce a specification drawing for us to make a pattern before we can make a mould and then cast. Clearly this is a more costly option.
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DO YOU MAKE HAND-MADE BRASS CHICKEN WIRE?
Yes we do. Maximum panel size 2meters x 600mm. woven onto a wire frame.
It is incredibly labour-intensive: Imagine weaving two unweavable rods which are 6 meters long. Now imagine 20 or more lengths of this unmanageable tangle whipping around as the strands are carefully woven multi-directionally over a former.
Email us with outside frame dimensions and we will work out a quotation with lead times.
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DO YOU MAKE CLOCK BEZELS?
Clock bezels were usually spun, and having a large diameter are unsuitable for the casting process. Sorry that we are unable to assist on this occasion, but this is an enquiry that could be directed towards metal spinning companies.
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DO YOU REPAIR OR RE-FINISH FITTINGS?
No, but our recommendation is to seek professional advice with an accredited clock or furniture restorer who should be able to carry out this work (See BAFRA on links page).
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WHY ARE THE PRODUCTS COSTLY?
They may be pricey, but they are good value for money.
Not to be confused with the mass produced die cast and pressed products, we hand-make each ordered item involving many laborious stages of production, and incorporate the imperfections, wear and blemishes which are part of the history and integrity of the original.
Perhaps best described by one client as the difference between the sound of closing the door of a Bentley in comparison to a Datsun. Each brand of car is a fine product with a purpose and a specific market. The difference is almost the intangible. One is a perfectly engineered "clunk" with weight and solidity. The mere act of closing the door of this fine vehicle is a pleasurable experience. The other is just a means of holding the door closed, and serves the purpose well.
Note: For multiple quantities of an item over £500 order value, we can tool up and reduce the production costs. Telephone or email your enquiry for a quotation.
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HOW CAN I ANTIQUE THE FINISH MYSELF?
Without access to chemicals, the best way is to allow the process to take place naturally. The shiny polished brass finish will mellow down to a pleasant gold colour after several months with natural oxidisation, and if handled and polished occasionally, it will also build up a pleasant patination.
You could try burying the fittings in the garden in a damp spot for a week or so to expose to natural elements which should weather down the finish a little.
You could apply dark boot polish over the fitting, letting the spirits evaporate before wiping off, but this will only sit on top of the metal and remain in the quirks and crevices although it can be quite effective superficially.
There are many ways to simulate an antique finish chemically and with heat treatments. Our recommendation is to seek professional advice with an accredited clock or furniture restorer who should be able to carry out this work or contact restoration suppliers who sell a suitable product. (See BAFRA on links page).
[Anecdote: Furniture faker's workshops 50 years ago may well have had the disgusting "piss pot" under the stairs. A smelly bowl containing human urine (Ammonia); some old cigarettes thrown in (nicotine and ash); some iron nails (Ferrous deposits); Oak shavings (Tannin) and a certain unwholesome acid which is not available off the shelf these days].
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HOW CAN I TEST A MERCURY GILT FINISH OR FILINGS TO KNOW WHETHER IT IS MELLOWED GOLD LACQUERED BRASS OR REAL GOLD?
Unless you are qualified, we recommend that you do not conduct this test yourself unless correct health & safety measures are in place.
Our advice is that you consult an accredited professional restorer; conservator or jeweller. (See BAFRA on links page). They will conduct a Nitric Acid test on the sample area in question or on filing samples. Nitric Acid will dissolve anything other than gold.
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HOW SHOULD I CLEAN BRASS? HOW CAN I POLISH MY FRONT DOOR KNOCKER AND PREVENT THE SURROUNDING WOODWORK FROM STAINING BLACK?
Care should be taken when deciding on which cleaning method to use - if any. Firstly, if the fitting is period (over 100 years old), our recommendation is not to clean at all. Our recommendation is to seek professional advice with an accredited clock or furniture restorer who should be able to carry out this work (see BAFRA on links page). since keeping the patination, and in all cases, if signs of original mercury gilding exists, are a priority and should be preserved.
If you are certain that the brass object is of no particular historical merit, then you will firstly need to remove any lacquer. Usually a paint stripper or Acetone or nail polish remover is effective.
1) Applying compound: The more abrasive the product, the easier it is to clean - but the more wear as tiny fragments of metal are removed each time it is polished. Eventually detail will be lost if the item is cleaned regularly. As a general rule of thumb, any cleaning product which is minutely "gritty" to the touch and applied by rubbing is probably abrasive. If applying in-situ, make a paper / thin card mask to prevent the black residue from staining the paintwork or wood surface.
2) Wire wool. Also slightly abrasive if used repeatedly, but very effective is rubbing gently with the very finest grade of wire wool. Here in the UK, this is "0000 grade".
3) Dipping: Preferably, we recommend the object should be removed and placed in a dip solution which will more than likely contain Ammonia provided that it is thoroughly neutralized after cleaning by washing with water. To remove the stubborn black deposits in the quirks and crevices , try white spirit followed by washing soda in hot water followed by an ammonia based cleaning solution followed by hot caustic soda all applied with old toothbrushes and with the correct health and safety precautions. Far better to seek professional advice (see links page).
4) Ultrasonic cleaning: Very effective but usually only accessible through a professional workshop. Seek professional advice (see links page).
5) Buffing machine / tumbler: Both using abrasive compounds and grit, these can be quite damaging unless skilfully used. Seek professional advice (see links page).
NOTE: We regret that we do not provide a cleaning / polishing service or supply materials or cleaning solutions because of the regulations in storing and shipping chemicals. Our recommendation is to seek professional advice with an accredited clock or furniture restorer who should be able to carry out this work or contact restoration suppliers who sell a suitable product. (See BAFRA on links page).
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WE HAVE A NUMBER OF YOUR KNOBS WHICH HAVE DEVELOPED STEEL-COLOURED MARKS. DO YOU KNOW WHAT THE CAUSE OF THIS IS?
This is usually silver solder which is sometimes used to fill deep imperfections or air bubbles in the brass, or could be a silver solder joint. It may be manifesting itself as the surrounding brass oxidises. If the entire knob is polished bright again, it will not be noticeable. Silver solder is considered compatible with the character nature and is often seen in period brass fittings.
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SHOULD I DRILL A PILOT HOLE BEFORE SCREWING IN MY FITTING?
Yes, if the product supplied has a brass thread, in order to prevent shearing the thread, we do recommend drilling a pilot hole and also cutting the thread with a steel screw before screwing in the casting, but if supplied with a steel thread, a pilot hole only is necessary.
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Frequently Asked Questions (Metals, plating, finishing, antiquing, lacquer).
I ORDERED SOME FITTINGS WITH AN ANTIQUE FINISH. THEY ARE VERY NICE, BUT A BIT TOO ANTIQUED. HOW CAN I LIGHTEN THEM PLEASE??
Better too dark than too light because it is easier to lighten than it is to darken. Just lightly rub with a very fine wire wool (Gauge 0000) to lighten the antiquing which is controllable by the amount of pressure used, or use a light abrasive brass cleaner on a cotton pad.
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IS IT POSSIBLE TO GET SAMPLES OF YOUR FINISHES?
There is a link next to every product which will take you to the section illustrating colour and finish examples, however we do acknowledge these can be variable depending on the quality of each person's computer monitor. If samples are a definite requirement, we suggest ordering low cost products and selecting your chosen finish from the drop down menu next to every product on the website.
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WHAT IS MERCURY GILDING AND DO YOU DO IT?
Mercury gilding was used extensively in the 18th and 19th Centuries, and was still available in Paris as recently as the 1980's. It involved the application of gold via a process which necessitated the burning of mercury which was the carrier for the gold. It is said that every mercury firing took 10 minutes off the lifespan of the unfortunate artisan who would undoubtedly have inhaled the mercury vapours.
Today, legislation has now stopped all mercury gilding but we can achieve a close match using legal and contemporary methods.
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WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MODERN BRASS AND YOUR RECIPE?
The principal difference is the lovely warm yellow colour which mellows to a yellow-gold colour after several months. Our recipe is also softer than the brittle pale yellow-white brass that we are all familiar with in hardware stores. We tend to add more zinc to the components which are subject to more wear and tear.
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IS THERE ANY LEAD CONTENT IN THESE FITTINGS?
Yes. The mixture of tin, zinc and copper is made up to a consistency to match the yellow to be found in 18th and 19th century fittings. U.S. law requires us to disclose that the lead content exceeds one half of one billionth of a gram. Typical content is 2 1/2% although 1% is achievable in Brass, and 1/4% in Bronze by special request at additional cost.
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DO YOU CAST IN BRONZE RESIN PLEASE?
Sorry, we don't cast in resin.
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DO YOU CAST IN BRONZE?
Yes, we do cast in Bronze and can also apply various shades of colour and patination if required.
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CAN YOU MAKE FITTINGS IN CAST IRON; LEAD OR ALUMINIUM?
Sorry, we do not supply in cast iron, lead or aluminium.
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CAN YOU ANTIQUE AND PATINATE PLATED FINISHES?
Yes, although we state bright finish only for plated finishes, just let us know if you want the brightness toned down and weathered.
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WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 10% AND 50% ANTIQUE FINISH?
Brass acquires a wonderful colour and patination if just left to mellow and oxidise naturally, which is usually more pleasing to the eye than a synthetic oxidisation. However, there are often requirements to speed the process up where a replacement would look mis-matched, and time does not permit the natural oxidisation to occur.
A 10% antiqued finish is a light synthetic chemical process to "knock back" the shiny reflective buffed polished finish to speed up the process of oxidisation which would happen naturally after several months anyway.
A 50% antiqued finish is a heavier chemical treatment which synthetically advances the ageing process by 20 or 30 years of oxidisation; patination and pollution, and can be quite dark and obscuring.
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ARE YOUR PRODUCTS LACQUERED?
Manufactured brass fittings have usually been treated with a thin clear lacquer after polishing in order to protect from tarnishing whilst the goods are sold. It is not intended as a long term protection but merely to keep the finish bright pre-sale.
We are not very keen advocates of lacquer as it tends to create more long-term problems than solutions, and therefore none of our products made in the UK are supplied with lacquer unless stated or by special request.
One of the problems with lacquer is that it will invariably break down in patches after perhaps only a few months depending on environmental conditions - particularly humid and seaside and highly polluted areas. As the lacquer flakes off, the areas exposed to air will then oxidise and tone down, whilst the lacquer that remains will remain shiny, leaving a patchwork of bright and oxidised brass.
Most lacquer can be removed with the careful application of paint stripper, acetone or nail varnish remover. After neutralising, the application of a non-abrasive clear wax polish will slow down but not prevent oxidisation.
Alternatively stove lacquers which are heat baked onto the brass using a kiln are a lot more durable (and consequently more difficult to remove when they do finally break down). We are unwilling to provide stove lacquering but perhaps an auto repair shop with specialist facilities may be able to assist if lacquering is something that you absolutely want.
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Frequently Asked Questions (Copy matching, bespoke, production runs).
YOUR PRICES ARE OBVIOUSLY GEARED FOR SMALL QUANTITIES. CAN YOU PROVIDE A COMPETITIVE PRODUCTION RUN QUOTATION?
Yes, absolutely. If the quantity reaches an optimum level, we can tool up differently, and reduce costs by up to 80% of the traditional small order production costs.
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DO I HAVE TO SEND MY ORIGINAL PATTERN TO YOU IF YOU ARE GOING TO PRODUCE A COPY-CASTING?
Not necessarily. We understand that there are those rare cases when it may be inappropriate to remove a valuable original fitting for duplication. We can produce a pattern prior to moulding if you email us specification drawings and images to work from but this will add significantly to your costs.
If there is an original available, choose the best condition one that you have, since any defects will be duplicated in the mould unless we repair first. Send us all the bits if it is a component from a set (i.e. if it is a handle, send us the complete set including nuts and straps etc.) so that we can be certain that everything will fit.
We will not cannibalise your original and will take care of it and return it with your order in the same condition as received.
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I NEED JUST ONE COPY OF A HANDLE. WOULD YOU BE WILLING TO MEET SUCH A SMALL ORDER?
Yes, we welcome small orders, but please be aware that there will usually be a one-off moulding / tooling cost before we can even get to the casting stage. Send an image by email along with dimensions and quantity required, and we will provide an estimate of the cost. (Please do not send images by fax because they come through black and unclear).
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I AM CONCERNED THAT MY MODEL WILL APPEAR ON YOUR WEBSITE FOR FUTURE SALES. CAN I HAVE EXCLUSIVE OWNERSHIP OF THE MOULD PLEASE?
Yes. Usually we combine different client orders within a single mould to keep costs down and if considered appropriate we may add the item to the collection at a later date, as explained in our terms & conditions.
If exclusivity is requested pre quotation, we will not share the mould with other client orders, instead making a special individual mould, and either return your exclusive mould with goods or hold it in storage for your exclusive future use.
Option of mould exclusivity is at additional cost if required.
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Frequently Asked Questions (Ordering, shipping, catalogue, website questions).
PLEASE ADVISE HOW CAN I GO ABOUT PLACING A WHOLESALE ORDER?
We are sole manufacturer, supplier and distributor and there are no other shops or retail outlets for our products other than this website. Consequently the prices on the website are already wholesale, but there is a discount structure for multiple orders if the quantity of the same product reference number exceeds £500.
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HOW CAN I REMOVE ITEMS FROM SHOPPING BASKET?
1. Click on "View Cart" : 2. Click on the box where it says "Remove" (a tick should appear) : 3. Click on the blue "Update" button (bottom left).
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IS THERE A HARD COPY CATALOGUE THAT CAN BE DOWNLOADED?
Yes. You can build your own catalogue of the products that interest you by printing out each pop-up window when clicking on the "printer friendly " button for each product.
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HOW MUCH WILL SHIPPING COST?
You can calculate the shipping by making a dummy order by placing the item/s in the shopping basket and clicking on "Checkout". Enter the country and State / Province (if applicable). Now click on "Next", and shipping will be calculated for you. Don't worry, you will only be charged if you carry the payment details all the way through to the final card processing stage.
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CAN I RETURN GOODS IF I DON'T LIKE THEM?
Yes, but since all products are hand-made to order, if goods are returned unwanted or purchased in error, a 40% re-stocking charge will be deducted from the refund. This also applies to clearance items to cover for administration costs. We regret that custom-made; plated or antiqued fittings will not be refunded or exchanged. .
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I AM HAVING SOME DIFFICULTY PLACING MY ORDER ONLINE. CAN YOU GUIDE ME THROUGH STEP-BY-STEP PLEASE?
1) Click on "More " to view further images, dimensions and information on choice. 2).Select any options by clicking on the drop down menu arrow. 3). Highlight the number in the "Quantity" box and type in the quantity required if more than one. 4). Now click on "Add to cart". This just puts that particular product into your shopping basket. (You haven't purchased it yet). You can return to continue viewing and selecting other products or... 5). Click on "View Cart" to see your selected items. Here you may make adjustments by using the "Update; Save; Retrieve; Continue shopping and Checkout" buttons. (The VAT calculations will be amended in the next step). 6). Click on "Checkout basket" and fill in the required fields before placing your order.
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CAN YOU TELL ME PLEASE - IS IT SAFE TO PURCHASE ON LINE?
We understand the reluctance of some customers to submit details online. Your order will be processed by the latest secure server software. This means that all sensitive information such as credit card details sent for authorisation are encrypted so then cannot be read by others. We use the same methods as used by many of the largest e-commerce sites.
Tip: When paying online whether this website or others, please be sure that the browser is showing : https://etc... in the top left corner, and that the yellow padlock icon is showing.
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CAN YOU CONVERT THE PRICE FROM BRITISH POUNDS INTO MY CURRENCY?
Yes, underneath each price click on "Currency Converter." Select your currency from the drop down menu, enter the amount to be converted in the "convert" box, and you will see the equivalent cost automatically in real time. The currency converter is also in the "view cart" and "checkout" sections.
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DO YOU HAVE A SHOW ROOM OR SHOP WHERE I CAN BUY?
Sorry, but no longer. We used to, but like many businesses, to reduce overheads, we have changed to online sales only.
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HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO DELIVER MY ORDER?
We make products to order, and always aim for a 14 to 28 day dispatch. (Christmas and public holidays can sometimes slow down dispatch by a few days). If we are copy-matching a fitting for you and pattern-making before casting, generally allow 4-6 weeks dispatch.
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WHY IS IT NECESSARY TO MAKE A £15 MINIMUM ORDER CHARGE?
We regret having to apply any small order policy, but feel sure that that you will understand that the reason is due to administration costs. Please note that the £15.00 minimum order excludes postage & packing & VAT.
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HOW CAN I FIND A PARTICULAR PRODUCT ON THE WEBSITE?
If you haven't found what you are looking for in the sections, try using the "QUICK SEARCH" or more thorough "SEARCH" boxes at the top of each page using separate searches of both singular and plural of the product which will pick up on more key words. (i.e. finial & finials).
If nothing shows up, we do not have that product at the present time, but may well be adding it in subsequent updates.
If you are fortunate enough to have an original pattern and require duplicates made, please refer to our "COPY MATCHING & BESPOKE" section..
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HOW CAN I VIEW MORE DETAILS OF A PRODUCT?
Beneath each image, click on the "MORE" button and a window will appear with more image views; dimensions and notes on the product.
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